Eyeshadow, where do you even begin? There are so many different techniques, looks and ways to manipulate eyeshadow. That’s what makes me an artist. I have the ability to create in so many different ways with different colors, techniques, etc. But for now let’s talk about the basics.
Where do you start?
My biggest tip for a beginner of makeup or if you just have no idea where to begin is to start with a very basic and simple palette. One that has maybe 5 basic brown shades.
The easiest place to start is the absolute basic eyeshadow look. Light in the inner corner and darker in the outer (refer to eyeshadow diagram). You always want to start with some kind of base on your eye whether it’s an eyeshadow primer or just concealer. Personally, I use eyeshadow primer on my clients and concealer on myself. When I attended The Masterclass with Mario Dedivanovic, he explained that eyeshadow primer was not a thing back when he started doing makeup so therefore he has always used concealer (so if Kim K doesn’t need eyeshadow primer, you don’t either). If you chose to use concealer, you should be setting it with a powder. Whether it’s a translucent powder, pressed powder or even a skin tone colored eyeshadow. The reason for setting the concealer is if you apply powder on a “wet”or “sticky” base you will have a hard time blending the shadow out. Powder sticks to cream.
After you set the concealer you can start with what many artists call a “transition shade”. A transition shade is a lighter shade close to your skin tone. When you do eyeshadow you’re going to want to layer from lightest to darkest. Almost like an ombré affect, this makes for flawless blending. Your transition shade will be applied to the crease and in the outer corner.
Next, you can take a shade a bit deeper and apply that in the same areas; the crease and the outer corner. By now you’re creating dimension and accentuating the outer corner of the eye. The whole purpose behind this theory is trying to create the perfect eye shape, which is almond shape.
Now you can either choose to continue going darker in the crease or you can start on the lid. Naturally, you want the lid and inner corner to be lighter so the inner part of your eye looks bright and awake. For the lid and inner corner you can choose to do all the same color or you can go light on the inner corner and deeper on the lid and then blend them together. An example of these colors is maybe a champagne as your lightest color and something deeper could be a bronzy shade. The choice is yours! That’s the beauty of makeup.
At this point you can either stop where you are or you can continue to deepen the look. If you choose to deepen the look you can go darker, or even black (although, I wouldn’t recommend using black if you’re not confident with makeup yet). I would keep your darkest shades strictly in the outer corner. If you bring them in too far it’s bringing darkness towards the inner part of the eye and thus closing off your eye and making it look smaller.
To finish off the look my favorite steps to do are add a light, matte cream shade to the brow bone and a light shimmery shade to the inner corner. By doing this you are highlighting the inner part of the eye, making it look more open and awake and also accentuating the brow and brow bone.
Lastly, I like to take one of my lighter and deeper shades, mix them together and run them on the lower lash line. I bring these shadows about half way in, not the whole way because again, that will close off the eye. To me, this connects the upper and lower lash line, bringing it all together and also deepens the lower lash without closing the eye off like liner would. Personally, I find using eyeliner on the waterline and lower lash to be more harsh and leave the eye more closed off. Using shadow is softer and more natural looking in my opinion.
Now, there's so much more I could share with you when it comes to eyeshadow, eye shape, tricks and more. But I’ll save that for another post. For now we are focusing on the basics. I hope this helped and if you have questions don’t hesitate to ask! You can also book a makeup lesson with me at Haven Salon if you would like to be shown in person how to apply your makeup plus get all of my tricks. Enjoy!